In aesthetic is the 90 we hear of alpha-hydroxy acids or betaidrossiacidi, first presented as a panacea for every imperfection such as wrinkles, hyperchromatic spots, acne etc .. but then, over the years, have found their rightful place, defining well their function, by providing clarity on what can also use the beautician and what instead can use the doctor. ">Thus we see what they are and what they contain chemical exfoliants.
Fruit and chemical exfoliants
The chemical exfoliants are cosmetics that are used for the removal of corneocytes in the process of flaking on the skin surface. It is promoted by the application of chemicals that can cause a (literal) controlled disintegration of the skin surface, followed by an exfoliation and the increased cell turnover. Some of them are the alpha-hydroxy acids and other fruit acids (malic acid from apples, grapes tartaric acid, glycolic acid, sugar cane, citric acid
citrus, mandelic acid from almonds, etc.) Are widely used for their properties exfoliants and antioxidants. This effect is achieved by more or less intense removal of dead cells from the epidermal surface; in this way it stimulates cell renewal, giving the skin a smoother, more radiant look. Fruit acids, in particular, are able to dissolve the ties that bind dead cells to those lives, facilitating their removal and fall due to their small size, which allow it to penetrate deeply. They are commercially available products containing fruit acids in various concentrations, ideal for daily treatment, for that periodic or for that specialist. Exceed with their use, it means cause abnormal thinning of the skin, which will make it more fragile and helpless compared to external aggression, to cause skin microdermabrasion and rupture of capillaries. The commercial products contain fruit acids in low concentrations, normally between 5 and max 10%, so as to be tolerated a bit 'from all types of skin and complexion, playing a moisturizing action and not exfoliating.
What is the concentration of alpha hydroxy acids in products for the medical industry?
The percentage Deghi AHAs, in professional products for medical use, may exceed 50% with pH values well below 3, where, with the application of these, you "peel" the skin literally, doing also very aggressive exfoliation where the patient will have to follow for about 15 days in a hygienic way and considerable better barrier. Furthermore, given that the skin at that precise moment is not equipped with its three skin barriers that protect it, it must avoid exposure to atmospheric agents and undergo topical and therapy treatments such as use of antibiotics.
What 's the percentage of acid allowed in cosmetic products that can use the beautician?
The beauticians can use products with concentrations of 30% maximum and with a pH not less than 3, where the exfoliating action is deep with results also very obvious. Although never sbucceranno the skin as a peeling performed by the doctor, this type of approach is still effective over time. Generally, good results are also visible after the first treatment in an institution, but as mentioned above must not exceed. The professional operator, which the beautician, must properly evaluate the first parameter, the Substrate or the thickness of the horny layer of the customer, because a number of too close and treatments on a thin substrate assottiglierebbe too the epidermis, not giving the time needed to replenish his defenses, making it more susceptible to external aggressions. Then you have to take account of the second parameter or the pure PERCENTAGE of AHAs, present in cosmetics, although you can not exceed the limit allowed by law N ° 1 of 4 January 1990. For last and not least there is the third parameter , or the pH of the cosmetic which contains the percentage of acid, also here you can not exceed the allowed limit. Held account all these parameters can be obtained wonderful results without causing any harm to the skin. The first applications, based on fruit acids may cause slight redness, burning and pizzichii, but generally these effects disappear in a short time; if sustained over time or were particularly intense, treatment should be discontinued immediately and should be buffered with a basic pH buffer solution. In this fall season to remove thick and gray, the skin of the face, we recommend treatments based on AHAs, that smooth and brighten the skin, like our treatment mandelic acid, which works simultaneously on multiple imperfections such as blemishes, wrinkles and opacity, with extraordinary results always targeted to the maintenance in good state of unique and inimitable that dress: OUR SKIN.