The alpha and beta hydroxy acids in cosmetic

Alpha and beta hydroxy acids make their first appearance in the 90's and many cosmetic companies using them as flagship products pesentandoli as the "panacea for all ills." These, fruit acids called, enclose a large group of "organic acids" extracted from many natural substances and we can find them in two forms: alpha and beta. These substances are particularly suitable for all those exfoliation treatments that promote the renewal of the epidermis as peeling or scrub. The effect is due to the removal of dead cells from the skin surface which consequently stimulates cell renewal, giving the skin a smoother, more radiant look. Carry on alpha and beta idrossiacid exfoliating treatments is very useful and effective, their beneficial effects are well known since ancient times: Cleopatra every day immersed himself in asses' milk he had noticed the smoothing effects on the skin, unknowingly in fact it used a basic treatment of Lactic acid, one of the best known alpha-hydroxy acids.

Alpha hydroxy acids

The alpha-hydroxy acids are more commonly known organic molecules such as fruit acids. In fact in nature they are mostly found in fruits; eg lemon and orange contain citric acid, the blueberry and pineapple lactic acid, glycolic acid from sugar cane, the grape is glycolic acid that tartaric acid and the apple , strawberry and papaya malic acid, mandelic acid mandelico.acido the almonds and 'now known and long recognized that the alpha-hydroxy acids have the ability to remove the stratum corneum dehydrated and old (corneocytes or dead cells ) corners aspect responsible and dull skin. They also stimulate cell turnover and consequently slow down the skin aging process. Have strong regenerative properties that determining a thickness of the epidermal growth, making the color of the uniform skin, increasing the activity of fibroblasts, the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers and mucopolysaccharides that promote skin hydration. They have a small and very stable molecular structure soluble in water and are naturally present in our organism because they are physiological components of the biochemical reactions in our cells. Why are safe products that rarely lead to allergic problems. In this regard a special attention deserves the lactobionic acid, a poly-hydroxy acid which in addition to operate on the skin according to the mechanisms as outlined above, has a chemical form which prevents the phenomena of irritation of their traditional alpha-hydroxy acids. Very interesting is also its antioxidant action that places him among the most interesting products against skin aging.

The organic activity by alpha-hydroxy acids

The chemical structure of alpha hydroxy acids determines their biological activity, in fact are organic acids which have a hydroxyl group on the carbon atom adjacent to the carboxyl group which allows it to intercalate between protein junctions of corneocytes, the "bricks" of our skin, reduce the cohesion and facilitate the power to capture fluids through the formation and the increase of the number of hydrogen bridges whether created by the presence of the same hydroxyl groups. This process favors a faster hydration effect and plasticity cutanea.molecola hydroxy acid These acids are also able to selectively inhibit the solfotransferasi and the phosphotransferase, two Members enzymes to the formation of bridges between corneocytes (which therefore increase the cohesion between them), leading to the removal of keratin plug, an exfoliating effect and a thinning of the stratum corneum which consequently improves the receptivity of the skin penetration of the active ingredients in cosmetic products. But the thinning of the stratum corneum must not be associated with a skin weakening but the exact opposite. In fact, thanks to the stimulation of the tourn over cellular is a noticeable thickening of the epidermis due to the generation of new cells.

Beta hydroxy acids

The beta hydroxy acids are highly insoluble aromatic compounds are also used, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, for their action esfoliante.Il most famous and used of beta hydroxy acids is salicylic acid, content in nature in the willow bark. Generally they are little used in products for home use inquanto difficult to dose and because of their greater aggressiveness against dela skin, but they are effectively used in dermatology. Their molecule is larger than the alpha and, therefore, act only on the surface corneocytes.

The treatments with acids

The exfoliating treatment using more known acids always is to glycolic acid, alpha-hydroxyacid for excellence, that, at optimal concentrations is able to uniform the grain of the leather and make it brighter and velvety. At the same time, in addition to the visible benefits, the glycolic acid prepares the skin for a perfect moisturizer, essential point to give it its physiological elasticity. The small molecule of this acid makes it very aggressive, then, especially in cosmetic, it is frequently preferred to adopt more "quiet alternatives" and manageable in a longer time but still effective. L 'effective alternative to glycolic called mandelic acid. Its molecule is larger and this slows down the chelating action, avoiding skin irritation, also its characteristics enable it to be an excellent veicolatore of substances capable of inhibiting the formation of melanin or degrade the existing one as the ' Kojic acid. Its most important function of the latter is the one depigmenting and it can be obtained in numerous products for the care of the person. It was initially extracted from rice bran but fortunatamenteoggi you can also find in other natural products, such as olive oil and cocoa beans. Use the same time in one treatment is the Kojic acid that mandelic acid tends to speed the process of depigmentation of the skin, especially in case of sunspots. It turns out to be valid in case of keratosis and hyperpigmentation, but also in cases of chloasma, a type of stain that appears due to high hormone levels in women during pregnancy, menopause or due to the incorrect functioning of the adrenal glands. Usually, these spots are brown in color and occur on the face and forehead. To make safe the incisors treatments using acids should contact your doctor or dermatologist for a professional beautician. Then there are products on the market, conteneti low percentages acids, excellent for home maintenance. Cosmetic very effective exfoliants and safe for home use may be those conteneti beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, which, as stated, effectively exfoliate the surface without penetrating in depth. The latter has soothing properties and bacteriostatic and, therefore, is very useful also in the presence of lesions. And 'recommended prinicalmente in the case of greasy and acne-prone skin, precisely because it is able to eliminate the cap of keratin, are going to release the skin and reducing the signs of pimples themselves.